67.
comfortable its accommodation, and obliging and amiable its commander (and in Captain Caldbeck we were particularly fortunate in this regard), is not exactly the residence which one would select, in which to pass two summer months in one of the worst tropical climates in the world. (Sic!) Nor, even if the attractions of Hongkong were less than they are, which is scarcely possible, is it a pleasant thing to be anchored a mile at least from the shore. During the season of typhoons this distance was doubled. We then sought shelter under the Kowloon promontory; and a dinner on shore was a serious undertaking, when it involved a midnight voyage in an open Tanka boat, possibly in a gale of wind or a pitiless storm of rain.
This was an experience of common occurrence. Sometimes we were detained on shore from stress of weather; and on the occasion of a typhoon which destroyed two hundred junks at Macao, but the full violence of which we escaped, the Ava was obliged to keep under steam all night.
"When it was not blowing or raining, the heat was intolerable; and we all suffered more or less in health from its evil effects. Often for days together we remained sweltering on board, from lack of energy or sufficient inducement to leave the ship. The charms of the (Hongkong) Club or the excitement of a game of billiards failed to tempt us.
Hongkong boasts of only two walks for the conscientious valetudinarian - one along the sea shore to the right, and the other to the left of the settlement: then there is a scramble to the top of Victoria Peak at the back of it; but this achievement involves an early start, and a probable attack of fever. (See 21-11-33). The monotony of life is varied by this malady alternating with boils or dysentery;
so that the proverbial hospitality of the merchants at Hongkong can only be exercised under very adverse influences. It was not difficult to account for a certain depression of spirits, and tone of general irritability, which seemed to pervade the community. A large bachelors' dinner was the extreme limit of gaiety.
"It was provoking that a place possessing so many scenic attractions should have been so entirely devoid of other charms. Like a beautiful woman with a bad temper, Hongkong claimed our admiration while it repelled our advances. We did, indeed, make one spasmodic effort to be 'jolly under creditable circumstances.' Lord Elgin gave a picnic at the Bogue Forts (near Canton). As his invitations were responded to by nearly all the ladies in the place, as the day happened to be lovely, and the Ava admirably adapted for the excursion, the attempt was not altogether unsuccessful; and on our return at night, we indulged in a little picturesque dissipation. The deck was turned into a ball-room. A band of the Calcutta supplied us with excellent music; while huge fantastic Chinese lanterns, swinging from the awning, threw a brilliant light upon the dancers.
"On the 16th of October, Baron Gros arrived in the Audacieuse, and after conferring with Lord Elgin, took up his anchorage in Castle Peak Bay, Lantao Island, where Admiral Rigault de Genouilly, with the French Fleet, were at anchor, about twelve miles distant from Hongkong. Lord Elgin was desirous of judging for himself on the state of matters in the river, he proceeded in the Ava to Macao Fort."
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:
67.
comfortable its accommodation, and obliging and amiable its commander (and in Captain Caldbeck we were particularly fortunate in this regard), is not exactly the residence which one would select, in which to pass two summer months in one of the worst tropical climates in the world. (Sic!) Nor, even if the attractions of Hongkong were less than they are, which is scarcely possible, is it a pleasant thing to be anchored a mile at least from the shore. During the season of typhoons this distance was doubled. We then sought shelter under the Kowloon promontory; and a dinner on shore was a serious undertaking, when it involved a midnight ́voyage in an open Tanka boat, possibly in a gale of wind or a pitiless storm of rain.
This was
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an experience of common occurrence. Sometimes we were detained on shore from stress of weather; and on the occasion of a typhoon which destroyed two hundred junks at Macao, but the full violence of which we escaped, the Ava was obliged to keep under steam all night.
•
us,
"When it was not blowing or raining, the heat was intolerable; and we all suffered more or less in health from its evil effects. Often for days together we remained sweltering on board, from lack of energy or sufficient inducement to leave the ship. The charms of the (Hongkong) Club or the excitement of a game of billiards failed to tempt
Hongkong boasts of only two walks for the conscientious valetudinarian - one along the sea shore to the right, and 1⁄2 the other to the left of the settlement: then there is a ~ scramble to the top of Victoria Peak at the back of it; but this achievement involves an early start, and a probable Map attack of fever. (See 21-11-33). The monotony of life is -varied by this malady alternating with boils or dysentery;
so that the proverbial hospitality of the merchants at Hongkong can only be exercised under very adverse in- fluences. It was not difficult to account for a certain depression of spirits, and tone of general irritability, which seemed to pervade the community. A large bachelors!" dinner was the extreme limit of gaiety.
"It was provoking that a place possessing so many scenic attractions should have been so entirely devoid of other charms. Like a beautiful woman with a bad temper, Hongkong claimed our admiration while it repelled our advances. We did, indeed, make one spasmodic effort to be "jolly under creditable circumstances." Lord Elgin gave a picnic at the Bogue Forts (near Canton). As his invitations were responded to by nearly all the ladies in the place, as the day happened to be lovely, and the Ava admirably adapted for the excursion, the attempt was not altogether unsuccessful; and on our return at night, we indulged in a little picturesque dissipation. The deck was turned into a ball-room. band of the Calcutta supplied us with excellent music; while huge fantastic Chinese lanterns, swinging from the awning, threw a brilliant light upon the dancers.
The
"On the 16th of October, Baron Gros arrived in the Audacieuse, and after conferring with Lord Elgin, took up his anchorage in Castle Peak Bay, Lantao Island, where Admiral Rigault de Genouilly, with the French Fleet, were at anchor, about twelve miles distant from Hongkong. Lord Elgin was desirous of judging for himself on the state of matters in the river, he proceeded in the Ava to Macao Fort."
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